The Gardens and the Gold

I’m fortunate; this wasn’t my first trip to France. In fact, it was my third. Each trip was very different: the first in 1993 when I was visiting a friend in Germany and I took a 2-day bus tour from Germany to France. The second in 1999 with two friends when we did the “if this is Paris, it must be Tuesday” type of tour. Both times I went to Versailles, and this trip was no different…well, except during the 1999 trip when we almost got kicked out for bringing in our own wine. Hey, it’s France…I thought wine would be acceptable.

So, this time, my third time, I wanted to take the reservation-only, guided tour of the private apartments of Versailles. I had really hoped to visit The Grand Trianon as well, but that was not to be.

My Editorial

There’s not much new or different that I can discuss about Versailles that thousands and thousands of other travelers haven’t written before. But I will say that I did not enjoy the art exhibition there by Olafur Eliasson. You’d have to understand I don’t like modern art. At all. I don’t like weird eyeball things stuck on glass or some huge modern metal monstrosity sticking up out of an otherwise beautifully planned and calm reflecting pool. So now you know.

(It’s like that art project Over the River here in Colorado. Why? The Arkansas River is exquisitely perfect and beautiful as is. Hanging silvery fabric over 42 miles over it doesn’t add to it. It changes the ecosystem. Not a fan.)

The Enjoyable Interior

I loved being able to buy our Passport tickets and the guided tour tickets online ahead of time. So much better than waiting in line to get in!

We were able to visit the Porcelain Room, which was my favorite, filled with not only huge urns and decorative pieces, but also fine serving china that was exquisite. Robin egg blue curtains. This room was created in 1769. Louis XVI’s library is remarkable. Even the doors had bookshelves. Of course, the Cabinet des Depeches, or where the King read all the reports from his spies, was enlightening. The glimpse of the Secrétaire cylindre de Louis XV, a roll-top desk started in 1760 for Louis XVI, was a bit anticlimactic. It wasn’t completely clear what the importance of the desk was, so I researched it a bit:

  • It is supposed to be the most decorated desk ever made.
  • It’s made of wood and bronze.
  • It took nearly 10 years to complete, with it being finished under Louis XVI.
  • Both kings kept personal and diplomatic papers in the desk, with Louis XVI apparently deciding at this desk to support the American Revolution.

The Clock Room was less colorful, “only” white and gold, but more interesting is the Paris meridian on the floor of the room, indicated by a copper strip. The Paris meridian was apparently a rival to the Greenwich Meridian in the UK as to which would be the “prime meridian.” All pet lovers will appreciate the Antichambre des Chiens…a room just for the King’s dogs!

My second-favorite spot was the Royal Opera of Versailles. Harkening back to my theatre days, it was special to be able to see the huge proscenium and rich decoration. It’s made entirely of wood but painted to look like marble. Quite remarkable.

And, of Course, the Gardens

_igp4354-editedThe Gardens of Versailles are massive (800 hectare_igp4394-editeds, which I think is about 1900 acres): filled with ponds and fountains, statuary, lawns, mazes, topiaries…and of course flowers. Everyone who know_igp4380-editeds me knows that botanic gardens are a passion; I had great fun just roaming and taking it all in.

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