Is it cliche to say that this trip changed me? Perhaps, but it doesn’t make it less true.

I’ve traveled a good bit, mostly Western Europe, some central Europe, South and Latin America, and I always rolled my eyes a bit when travel books would say “spend time with the people wherever you go.” I’m introverted, with some social anxiety thrown in; it doesn’t come naturally to me to make small talk or engage with people I don’t know.

But on this trip? I was drawn to engaging, to talking with the open and kind people of Kenya and Tanzania. I suddenly could think of things to talk about and wanted to. I was actually even able to remember people’s names.

I want to be open, even it it’s a bit uncomfortable

There were a few times I found the openness, which sometimes was outright intrusiveness, to be uncomfortable. Entering various parks, there were often Maasai or other tribespeople selling their wares. I’m not a haggler; I don’t barter…or perhaps I should say it’s not a skill practiced in the United States. And so, it’s not comfortable for me. It was difficult to find ways to say “no” that seemed to have any effect on the people wanting us to buy. “Sina pesa” (I don’t have money) or “Hapana asante” (no thank you) didn’t get us anywhere. One woman did get downright disgusted with us, saying “woman promote!” several times; we finally realized she want us to support her, promote her by purchasing items. It was difficult not to feel bad. Only one other time did someone make another comment when we declined the offer to buy: “We all know Americans have a lot of money.” Ah, yes.

Joseph, our driver, could tell we were uncomfortable and not wanting to be rude. He said that he finds people (in Kenya, in this case) often don’t hear the stories of how long people in the United States, Europe, Japan, and so many other countries have saved up to go on safari, how it’s been a lifelong dream, or that we all have lives that makes such trips the exception and not the rule.

Some surprises

• Roads. So, I’m sure it said somewhere in my travel books (Lonely Planet still being my favorite series) that the roads would be bad. It didn’t sink in that almost all the roads are bad. Dusty, ungraded, rutted dirt tracks. I get it, infrastructure costs are exorbitant, and there are so many other priorities; I’m not complaining. I was simply surprised at the extent of the nonpaved roads. The World Health Organization has ranked Kenya as one of the worst for road safety. Actually, I’m glad I didn’t know that before I went.
• Mosquitoes. Or lack thereof. I only got bitten about five times, a very pleasant surprise. I had sprayed the hell out of my clothes with Sawyer Permethrin, which was not nearly as smelly as I’d feared. Of course, we had mosquito netting every night, which I know is a luxury not afforded to many residents. If you want to help provide mosquito nets, visit Project Mosquito Net, Global Giving’s mosquito net programs, Nothing But Nets, or various others.
• Water. OK, so this is just my reaction to a topic I felt I knew something about. I read the news, I’d worked for the American Water Works Association, I knew the lack of clean water is a massive problem. Still, seeing women collecting water from a polluted and dirty stream; it shook me. There’s something about the sheer reality that got past my logical self; these images shot straight through to my heart.
• Temperature. Despite informing myself on the weather, I was still SOOOO pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t miserably hot. I should clarify that I don’t like hot. I really don’t like hot and humid. But I wanted to go to Africa, so I had prepared myself. Despite being so close to the equator, Kenya and Tanzania were not that humid. Or hot. Maybe low 80s. Bonus! I realize that going another time of year might be a different story. And Zanzibar was truly a different story, but it’s an island so que vas a hacer—thank you my Spanish-fathered twin friends for teaching me that phrase (“what are you going to do?”).

Please go

It will change you in sometimes profound and sometimes slight ways. I was driving in my town the other day and came upon some road construction. “Oh! Dirt!” I thought, “I miss dirt!” and I smiled.

I miss it.

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When You Go

• Take eye drops and nose spray.
• Women, take a REALLY supportive sports bra. You’ll thank me.
• Take small packets of tissues or toilet paper.
• Take hand sanitizer.
• Take small gifts for your driver and anyone else you meet. It doesn’t have to be anything big; just a token of appreciation.